Asistente de instalación universal MultiChoice® para paredes delgadas

When using the thin wall aid, does one ring go on either side of the shower wall and does the plaster guard remain installed on the valve body?

Do I have to use a RP47202 thin wall inst. kit, and what size holesaw do I use to make a hole for the valve?

My home, built in 1999, has 1400 series shower faucets that I believe were not installed correctly. What part is needed for a fiber glass shower surround, thin wall installation? In addition, some water hammer has developed when the toilet is flushed and I have traced it to the connection where the hot and cold water meet at the valve. There are no water hammer arrestors at the hot/cold inlets. Do installatoin instructions call for arrestors on each inlet? thanks

replacing rough in valve, ceramic shower/bath. other side of wall is sink & cabinet. would like to replace valve w/o increasing approx 7 inch diameter hole in tile. Distance from stringer is 2 + 5/16 inch which i think is OK. However the 2x4 inch stringer ...only top mounting hole of rough in valve meets stringer, bottom mounting hole is below stringer.. meets air.. Any suggestions? Would thin wall mounting kit help? Thanks!

Dave, I’m installing the R10000-UNWSHF Delta MultiChoice® Universal in conjunction with an Aquatec 3232 CS 4 piece shower enclosure. I have/will have ample 2X backing to mount the R1000. So to confirm the RP47202 thin wall installation aid is not needed if it is solidly mounted, correct? Also you indicated that the plaster guard remains attached to the R1000 so the 2X depth in the stud wall is adjusted so that the plaster guard just touches the back of the thin wall panel (as opposed to flush with the finished front), est. to be about 1/8”, is that correct. As an alternative to the guess work of determining the backing depth in the stud wall mount I could opt to mount the R1000 using the RP47202 thin wall installation aid, correct? Lastly is the opening, if the plaster guard is intended to be flush with the back of the wall panel, should the opening I need to cut in the panel need to be the inside dimensions of the plaster guard or can I opt to bore a hole capable of receiving (with close tolerance) the bonnet nut? Is there a reason I would need to access any part of the R1000 housing after installation of the wall panel for maintenance, presuming pressure tests were successful before installation of the panel?